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Flipping out to queen

SPONGE CAKE SQUAREPANTS AHHH I'M SO EXCITED!!!

Posted on 2008.08.30 at 11:07
Mood: pleased
Music: Crystal Castles -- Crystal Castles
Do you know what I have done? I have done the seemingly impossible, the awesome and unlikely, the god-like and kick ass. I HAVE MADE A REAL SPONGE CAKE!!!

I should back up and explain why this is such a big deal. I love baking. I bake a LOT. I bake so many cakes and cookies and cupcakes that sometimes the kitchen stays sort of crappy and half cleaned for days at a time. Except, being lacto-vegetarian, there's an element of challenge and/or improvisation in most of my baking because I have to make up for the eggs. Honestly, I really enjoy this -- adding a variable element other than my own reliable ability to mess up totally straightforward directions adds adventure to the task. I actually have to discern what role the eggs are supposed to play in the Mr. Wizard episode of the recipe: how much do the eggs in a particular recipe supply the binding, the leavening, the moisture? Obviously, bakers with "alternative diets" have been doing this for years so it's not like I'm pioneering anything here, but it's fun. And for a lot of recipes, this doesn't really mean much. A little extra baking powder, or a little extra soda with a teaspoon of vinegar. Some cornstarch or arrowroot powder. A little dab of yogurt or sour cream or mashed bananas or something. This isn't rocket science. Except when it comes to sponge cake.

See, for those who don't read cookbooks for pleasure, there are generally two types of cakes: butter cakes and sponge cakes. With a butter cake, you take your butter (or margarine or shortening or whatever) and beat it with your sugar, and this incorporates air. Add a little baking powder/soda and your cake has more than enough leavening. With spongecake, however, you incorporate most of your air by folding beaten eggs (usually just whites) into the batter. The leavening comes mostly from the air you already just put in and it stays there from the proteins in the whipped eggs denaturing. This creates a cake of a different texture -- while butter cakes can be fluffy and tender, sponge cakes have a certain firmness, and are prone to being a little dryer. This is just a generally different experience in your mouth (heyoh!), and it lends itself much better to various toppings that need to be refrigerated -- because sponge cakes hold up fine in the fridge, whereas butter cakes get dense and icky. Also, the dryer texture of sponge cakes lends them to soaking syrups, which would turn most butter cakes to mush. Not to mention that sponge cake stays flexible, so you can manipulate it and wrap it up into stuff like jelly rolls.

Ah but this was an impossible dream for me. You can take care of the leavening and binding and moisture of eggs easily enough, but you can't beat egg-white levels of air into damn near anything you'd want to fold into a cake -- let alone something that mimics the chemical reaction of the proteins so it will retain all that air while the cake bakes. So in my no-egg adventures, I've picked up a lot of books on vegan baking. Even though I'm not vegan myself, a lot of these recipes are totally badass -- not to mention most of them remove the dairy from the cake by using margarine, and I can always opt for butter if I'm in the mood, while adhering to the recipe's take on eliminating the eggs. I've gone this route because honestly there just aren't a lot of books on baking for the lacto-vegetarian diet -- most veggies either do eat eggs or don't eat dairy. There are a handful of books geared towards moms who want to make cookies for their egg-allergic kids, but they don't handle this level of dessertitude. So either way, nobody was dealing with my eggless sponge cake problem.

But then I had a flash. Of GENIUS. Here's a recreation of my train of thought: "Finding resources on  Lacto-veg baking is hard! The diet is so uncommon. But wait...my own lacto-veg diet comes from my religious lifestyle. In fact, lacto-veg is the form of vegetarianism adhered to by almost all the Dharmic religions! I SHOULD BE LOOKING FOR INDIAN COOKBOOKS!!!"

So I took a look and sure enough, loads of Indian books on eggless baking. I ordered approximately one million of them. Now that I type all this out, I realize that what I had was the complete opposite of a flash of genius. I've been adhering to this diet and religious lifestyle and eating cake for my entire life and I just figured this out.

So anyway, this is straight up amazing. The books are full of recipes that actually do what the vegan recipes can't -- they achieve the ends of the traditional recipe with the integrated use of dairy. For instance, the magic ingredient in the eggless sponge cake? Sweetened condensed milk. Apparently it holds down the fort with regards to the proteins that only eggs could previously handle while sharing leavening duty with a little baking powder. And it blows my mind. I've never baked anything that's achieved this distinct, coveted texture before, and it just seems impossible considering how much I bake. Also, the cookbooks also feature recipes for all the other delicious desserts that I've wanted to make without eggs but also without tofu, from cheesecakes to gateaus, from mousses to souffles.

So anyway, I'd post the recipe for my Success Cake but I don't know if I have any readers who'd really care. Which isn't to sound snippy but come on, if you don't have to deal with this headache of all this,  you'd probably just want to crack open a few huevos and be done with it! I think I might have a couple of fellow Sant Mat kids who stop by here though, so if you want the recipe just ask. In the meantime I can ecstatically  reccommend two different books, both susinctly titled Eggless Desserts -- one by Tarla Dalal, and one by Nita Mehta. Thanks, ladies.

Comments:


Laureth
[info]laureth at 2008-08-30 22:18 (UTC) (Link)
Congrats! That sounds wonderful! I don't have the same egg issue, but I did have to cook and bake for a few years without wheat or dairy so I kind of understand. Spelt flour and soymilk only go so far when trying to make something delicious.

I had no idea about the sweetened condensed milk. That's kitchen alchemy there!
Nasty Canasta
[info]cammila_radio at 2008-09-04 19:26 (UTC) (Link)
Oh that's right! You sounded like you had some pretty good success with the dietary-restricted cooking though, even if it's kind of limited. Amy's makes a frozen mac and chee with soycheese that blows me away. It's really good and with tobasco on there, I can't even tell. I'm pretty sure it's still got wheat noodles in it though. That must have been a tough part of your adventures -- I've always tasted a real difference with rice noodles and what not.

It really is a lot of fun to experiment and improvise with this stuff. I skinnify my baked goods a lot, because I eat sweets every night whether they're fatty or not, so I figure I might as well try. It's always a fun challenge, even when it only becomes painfully clear at the end that some recipes just NEED butter.
the_macnab
[info]the_macnab at 2008-08-31 13:17 (UTC) (Link)
Indians are weird.

That cake looks awesome, though.
Nasty Canasta
[info]cammila_radio at 2008-09-04 19:28 (UTC) (Link)
Michael
[info]inhumandecency at 2008-09-01 23:50 (UTC) (Link)
Congratulations! That's a great discovery. And it is pretty funny to have that perspective shift, where your cumbersome and confusing alternative lifestyle is just what ordinary people do in a different part of the world. (incidentally, I did not know that this was the case.)
Nasty Canasta
[info]cammila_radio at 2008-09-04 21:42 (UTC) (Link)
Thanks! Not that I don't appreciate everything I learned about vegan baking, but it wasn't really helping me on the sponge-path. I don't know why I never thought of it before. I guess none of my veggie Indian cookbooks ever had Western desserts in them, but it seems like I would have realized that all the Dharmic-derived vegetarians in the world aren't just making burfi and traditional stuff.
Michael
[info]inhumandecency at 2008-09-05 02:40 (UTC) (Link)
I thought about your story again today. Elizabeth was talking about how she's interested in buying one of those super-small houses like the m-house or the mobile hermitage, but they seem to be made for wealthy people who want a small house for cachet, not frugality. It's hard to find advice on buying or furnishing a very small house on a budget. Then I said, "wait... aren't those called 'trailers'?"
(Anonymous) at 2008-09-07 17:33 (UTC) (Link)

I'd like the recipe please... :)

If you wouldn't mind, I would love the recipe to Success Cake...in fact I think I could do with a slice or two! If you don't want to post it up, I can send you my email?...Thanks!
Nasty Canasta
[info]cammila_radio at 2008-09-07 21:19 (UTC) (Link)

Re: I'd like the recipe please... :)

I'm happy to provide the recipe. :)

This is the recipe for eggless sponge cake from Eggless Desserts by Tarla Dalal. There are lots of other particularly useful eggless recipes in here, like for various kinds of eggless (and gelatineless) cheesecakes. I'd be reluctant to post too many of Ms. Dalal's recipes, since I'd like to support people buying her very useful book, but if you're looking for any other such eggless desserts and can't get a hold of the book, just email me (cammila at gmail dot com) and I'll be happy to provide the instructions. :)

This recipe is made to fill a 6inch/15mm cake pan. In America, that size isn't very common, so if you don't have a pan that size, just double the recipe and use a 10in/24cm ring pan, or a 9in/23cm springform pan. You could also try doubling it and using a normal 9in/23cm round pan, but they tend to be so short, I'd worry that the cake would spill over.

Ingredients:
1/2 can (200 grams) sweetened condensed milk
140 grams (1 and 1/4 cups) self raising flour (if you don't have any, you can make self raising flour by sifting in 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon salt for every 1 cup all purpose flour)
1 teaspoon baking powder (in addition to the baking powder in the flour)
1/2 teaspoon baking soda (aka bi-carb)
60 ml (4 tablespoons) melted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
75 ml (1/3 cup) water

1. Preheat the oven to 200 C (400 F). Sieve flour, baking powder and soda together.
2. Mix the four mixture, condensed milk, butter, vanilla and water and beat well (but be careful to just stir it until it's well combined -- if you beat it too much the wheat in the flour will become glutenous and the cake will be chewy!)
3. Pour the batter into the pan.
4. Bake in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. Then reduce the temperature to 150 C (300 F) and continue to bake for a further 15 minutes.
5. The cake is ready when it leaves the edges of the pan and is springy to the touch (be sure not to open the oven until all the minimum baking time has passed, or it could fall). Remove from the oven and let stand for one minute, then invert over a cooling rack and rap it on the back to dislodge the cake. Allow to cool completely before adding any frosting, whipped cream, or toppings.
(Anonymous) at 2008-09-11 11:00 (UTC) (Link)

Re: I'd like the recipe please... :)

Brilliant! Thank you for posting that, I will try it this weekend!
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